Also known as the Fatman iTube.
After listening to the Dared MP-5 tubed integrated pre-amp, I decided that I want to make a "pre-amp out". This is useful if I want to connect to a different amplifier, while wanting to use the tube section.
So I needed to tap the DAC + Tubed preamp stage of the Dared MP-5 as it does not have RCA out. Flipped the amp upside down and removed 4 screws to get access to the board, I noticed that the Dared MP-5 is using STI TDA7265 chip power amp.
Reading the datasheet from I found out that pin # 7 and #11 are the inputs, so this is where I want to tap the signal. Looking at the PCB they are clearly marked as L, R, and GND. Thanks to the PCB designer!
Update 25/5/09:
After living with the amp for quite a long time I have come to the conclusion that it is a very good amplifier which requires no modification/addition. I am using it now to power a pair of fullrange TangBand speakers.
Update 25/4/2015
The potentiometer used in Dared MP-5 is rather cheap one. After a few years it developed oxidation and audibly noisy. It can be easily accessed and changed using better ones like Alps etc. Smaller pots can be soldered from underneath the PCB patch.
So I needed to tap the DAC + Tubed preamp stage of the Dared MP-5 as it does not have RCA out. Flipped the amp upside down and removed 4 screws to get access to the board, I noticed that the Dared MP-5 is using STI TDA7265 chip power amp.
Reading the datasheet from I found out that pin # 7 and #11 are the inputs, so this is where I want to tap the signal. Looking at the PCB they are clearly marked as L, R, and GND. Thanks to the PCB designer!
Update 25/5/09:
After living with the amp for quite a long time I have come to the conclusion that it is a very good amplifier which requires no modification/addition. I am using it now to power a pair of fullrange TangBand speakers.
Update 25/4/2015
The potentiometer used in Dared MP-5 is rather cheap one. After a few years it developed oxidation and audibly noisy. It can be easily accessed and changed using better ones like Alps etc. Smaller pots can be soldered from underneath the PCB patch.
18 comments:
Hey, have almost bought the MP5, and thinking about driving the BW 685 with it, do you think it s gonna work ? or do i need more sensitive speakers ? thanks !
My room is 3x4 and it is good enough to drive a pair of 93dB speakers which I modified and became 88-ish dB.
Hey I know this is a really old post but I have a Dared MP5 myself and need some information if you'd be so kind. I bought a matched pair of Svetlana tubes for the amp (12AX7) and they don't work. I had read online the amp will use 12AX7 tubes. I unscrewed the bottom and checked the units insides comparing them to yours and they are identical. Could you help me out so I can use 12AX7 tubes? Cheers.
Can the pre out be connected to more power Amps - Say Rotel 981 B?
Thanks
Yes, check out the pre-amp out modification above
The tubes on them are "6N1"
Reference your 25/4/2015 update on replacing the potentiometer:
Can you recommend the Alps (or equivalent replacement) part number for the potentiometer? My Dared is making noise when changing the volume and appears to suffer from a noisy pot. I'm pretty sure I can replace mine, just need a part number.
Thanks
I solved the noise in the potentiometer just removing and putting again the tubes.
What are the specs on the pot you used? I am new to electronics modding.
I replaced mine with Alps RK16 100 kOhm dual pot. This is not a step pot but is much better in setting the desired volume. However, it's shaft is longer at 25mm, the original one I believe is only 15mm. I've changed to a bigger volume knob that cost just a few bucks and it fits nicely too.
I replaced mine with Alps RK16 100 kOhm dual pot. This is not a step pot but is much better in setting the desired volume. However, it's shaft is longer at 25mm, the original one I believe is only 15mm. I've changed to a bigger volume knob that cost just a few bucks and it fits nicely too.
I replaced mine with Alps RK16 100 kOhm dual pot. This is not a step pot but is much better in setting the desired volume. However, it's shaft is longer at 25mm, the original one I believe is only 15mm. I've changed to a bigger volume knob that cost just a few bucks and it fits nicely too.
they use a 6N1P (ECC85) tube per channel. but only a triode are used, as follower. so.. the tube does nothing, no gain, are just for show. I modified mine, using both triodes, two stages gain with RIAA, for turntable.
I haven't yet done the Alps RK16 mod, but did several other mods for reducing the audible glare in a Fatman-branded iTube.
Electrolytics:
3x 2200uF/35V TL -> 3x 2200uF/35V Elna RKD
1x 100uF/250V TL -> 1x 100uF/400V Rubycon AXW
1x 47uF/400V TL -> 1x 33uF/450V Rubycon YK
Interstage coupling:
2x 1uF/200v generic MKT (blue) -> 2x 1uF/250V Asahi Kasei MKP (green)
Resistors:
2x 10k/0.5W/5% generic CFR -> 2x 10k/0.25W/1% PRP non-magnetic (input series to the 6N1P grid)
2x 560E/0.5W/5% generic CFR -> 2x 510E/1W/1% Vishay wirewound (voltage divider in the TDA7265 chipamp feedback network 18k/560E - the smaller resistor is critical to linearity/sonics).
These were sufficient to completely eliminate the glare in the iTube. The Dared-branded units may not require all the mods, since they appear to use better-quality components, including electrolytics, out-of-the-box.
I had two Dared mp5. North american version have 12ax7 the other ones 6n1.
I didn't know there was an american version, I have an eurpean version,Hi is there a way to get it to work in the US with the 120V without having a converter?
I am considering purchasing a Dared MP-5BT on Amazon and the listing noted that the tubes used are 6N1 and 6N2 side by side. Since these tubes are a little hard to obtain currently I was wondering if there are equivalent tubes for both? I was also wondering if the sockets are wired to accept 6N1 equivalents in both or only 6N1 and 6N2 side by side? Thank you!
I saw on some forums where people used the same tubes in both sockets but I wasn't sure if that was for an older model of the MP-5 or something.
Really usefull tip given gainphile! Im gonna do this modification to my MP5 in order to be able to connect an external power amp,So we connect 7&11 as R/L channel inputs plus the common ground. Do we have to unsolder Tda 7265 from board or lift feet from 7/11 in order to drive just the external p. amp? Please advise, thanks in advance!
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